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LEMONS AUSTRALIAN RULES & REGS

YOU MUST READ AND KNOW ALL THIS!!!

24 Hours of Lemons Australia – Rules & Regulations

  1. GENERAL

1.0           WARNING: Motor Racing is exceedingly taxing, both physically and mentally. When driving a racecar, you’ll be exposed to extreme (both high and low) temperatures; dense smoke and fumes; intense shocks and vibration; very loud noises; and a variety of other unusual, exhausting, confusing and stressful conditions. EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU’RE IN EXCELLENT HEALTH, TELL YOUR DOCTOR WHAT YOU’RE PLANNING TO DO; GET A FULL PRE-COMPETITION PHYSICAL EXAM BEFORE YOU START MOTOR RACING; AND ESTABLISH A REGULAR SCHEDULE FOR RE-TESTS!

1.1       Organizers’ Decisions: Are final. If you don’t like it; tough! Get your own race.

1.2       Unsafe Vehicles and/or Drivers: At Organizers’ discretion, any unsafe car or driver may be removed from the event at any time.

1.3       Refunds, Entry-Fee Transfers, and Compensation for Loss: There are none. Forget it. It ain’t gonna happen. You get zip. Squat. Nada. Can’t get your act together? Tough nuts. T-boned on Lap One? Listen to the crickets! Abducted by aliens? Boo-hoo. “BUT” if you stumble and can’t get it together, the cut off is 60 days prior to the race date where you can get 100% refund of driver fees.

1.4       Prizes and Penalties: are assigned (aka, pulled from our butts) starting at scrutineering and throughout the event, based on the judges’ best guesses. Post-assignment whining can get you a whole lot of grief from the Technical team – as determined by a super-secret equation including vehicle age, general hooptieness, reliability of country of origin, unlikelihood of success, and the Organizers’ whim. Generally, prizes/penalties are proportionate to the merit/moron scale!

1.5       Your Car May Be REJECTED: This is fair racing. If you think you can play us for fools, think again – we’ve seen every trick in the book!

1.6       Right of Publicity: You and your motley crew may be photographed, video’d and recorded – these snippets may be reproduced and re-used whenever and wherever the heck the Organizers like (including but not limited to television, internet, magazines, radio, biblical apocrypha, CinemaScope epics, and cave paintings). You won’t get a penny unless somebody sees it and buys you a coffee. If you’re not comfortable with that, wear a Mexican wrestler mask and/or stay home.

1.7       No Cruisin’ or Stuntin’ or Splodin’: All motorized vehicles entering the venue must adhere to the venue’s traffic management rules, particularly with regards to speed and safety. No firearms or fireworks may be used on track property.

1.8       No unauthorized Drones or Other Aircraft: Sorry, the insurance people insist – no (intentionally) flying machines allowed onsite.

  1. ELIGIBILITY

2.0       Vehicle Eligibility: Entry limited to mass-produced, four-wheeled vehicles legal for Australian highway use at the time of their manufacture. Vehicles must be acquired and prepared for a maximum of $999.00 as described. Vehicles must meet all safety standards as specified in this document.

2.1       Driver Eligibility: All drivers must be 16 years of age or over, have a valid Australian or International driver’s license and a valid race license (check specific event for specific license type required): CAMS (2S or higher), Australian-Auto Sport Alliance (AASA) weekend/Club competition license or Queensland Racers License.

2.2       No Passengers Allowed: Due to the strident insistence of the Fun Police, no passengers are allowed during the race.

2.3       Tyre Eligibility: Approved standard road use/PASSENGER vehicle Radial tyres only. No high-performance or RACING TYRES (including formula ‘R’ spec). Be warned!! We are going to be

brutal on this point, NO RACING TYRES, if the RTA DO NOT ACCEPT THEM AS PASSENGER RADIAL TYRES for the road, then they are out – we will not let you onto the track. This is a duration event and you don’t need high performance tyres for that!

2.4       Whiner Eligibility: Whiners are not eligible to compete. If you believe that you might be a whiner, please check with a domestic partner, guardian, or health-care professional before getting the rest of your team kicked the hell out of the race.

  1. SAFETY

A. SCRUTINEERING

3.A.1       General SCRUTINEERING: Vehicles must meet all safety standards laid out in this section and must pass scrutineering prior to each race. (also called “Lemons Safety Inspection”)

NOTE: This is in no way a certification, representation, or guarantee that your crappy old vehicle is fit or safe to drive. Each team is solely responsible for determining its vehicle’s safety, fitness to race and compliance with Lemons’ rules.

3.A.2   Jack and Axle-stands: Each team must bring at least one sturdy floor-jack, and at least two sturdy axle-stands to scrutineering. Each team is responsible for safely raising their car off the ground during the scrutineering process.

B. SAFETY WEAR & NECK PROTECTION

3.B.1    Driver Helmets: Minimum requirement for drivers helmets are 1698 Australian Standard (i.e. no Skull Caps) but be smart! Get a full-faced helmet – it looks cooler!

3.B.2    Forward Neck restraint/Protection: This is not a requirement but HIGHLY recommended to use.

3.B.3    Fire-Retardant Clothing: Minimum requirement is a 2-layer suit (or a single layer suit with approved fire retardant undergarments). Race Gloves: minimum requirement is nomex, carbonex or equivalent.

3.B.4    Undergarments: Socks, shirts, and other undergarments made of synthetic material (including nylon, orlon, Spandex, etc.) will melt to the skin in a fire and are strictly forbidden. Fire-retardant (Nomex, Carbon-X, or equivalent) racing socks are mandatory.

3.B.5    Arm Restraints: Arm restraints are required when driving an open T-Top or convertible.

C. FUELING RULES

3.C.1    Fueling: All fueling must be handled in approved fuel containers. During fueling, the car turned off (the kill-switch must be in the OFF position); no one can be in the car; and NO other work may be done (no fluid or tyre checks, no screwing with the in-car camera, etc.). At least two crew members must participate in fueling; all wearing the same safety gear as a driver – helmets included. Visors must be down, to cover faces. At least one team member must have a fire extinguisher in hand, ready to shoot, aimed at the fueler. Fueling locations vary by track and are covered at the Drivers’ Briefings. Participants are responsible for knowing all fueling rules and accepted locations.

3.C.2    Drip Pans: All fueling must be done over a sturdy, fuel-compatible drip pan provided by the team.

3.C.3    Fuel Spills: Fuel spills should be quickly diluted with water or Cold Fire. Gasoline eats asphalt; so don’t let it sit! Officials are happy to give you free cleanup supplies—come find one ASAP.

3.C.4    Fluid Spills and Disposal: Please prevent and contain fluid spills. If you do spill, come to Lemons HQ or alert any track official ASAP – we’ll help you get it cleaned up. Most tracks have environmentally safe disposal stations onsite – ask track officials for locations.

3.C.5.   Fuel Storage: Keep your fuel in a secure, shady place outside the garage, except for a maximum of 2 x 20 litre containers that are allowed inside your garage. However regulations change track to track, and always refuel your vehicle in the designated fueling area/s.

D. GENERAL VEHICLE REGULATIONS

3.D.1   Minimum Wheelbase: The minimum acceptable wheelbase is 2.2 metres or as delivered by the factory, or if approved by Lemons Management.

3.D.2   Doors: No Gull-wings! Or Lambo-doors; or anything else that will trap you in the event of a nasty incident.

E. ROLLCAGE REGULATIONS

OK, lets make this simple, for the simple. GO GET A PROFESSIONAL CAGE FABRICATOR TO MAKE YOUR CAGE!! GET A CERTIFICATE OF PRODUCTION….

If you don’t know what you’re doing, the time you spend trying to save a dollar is pointless.

3.E.1    General Roll-bar and Structure: Professionally made full roll cage built to our minimum spec (6 point cage with driver side intrusion bar) by an engineer OR qualify cage builder. A poorly built, improperly mounted, or badly engineered roll cage will keep you from driving: Don’t show up with a crappy welded mess! At minimum, cage must include:

* Full front and rear hoop, appropriately braced to each other along the roofline (halo type and side/down bar type are also acceptable)

* Driver’s side-intrusion.

* Appropriate main-hoop backstays with no bends, located as close to 45 degrees from horizontal as practical

* One main-hoop diagonal

* Appropriate spreader plates and gussets

So your cage must have complete 360-degree welds at all joints, including all car-to-cage joints. Each major loadbearing member must be formed from a single, continuous tube. Shoulder-harness bars are necessary for proper shoulder harness mounting in nearly all applications (the harness-to-bar attachment point must be between zero and 15 degrees lower than the harness’s seat-entry point). Dash bars are very strongly encouraged. On all sides, all drivers’ helmeted heads must be at least two inches inside the area enclosed by the cage. Feel free to beef the sucker up to world rally specs… hell, we’ll give you bonus laps for that! Cages can be bolt-in or weld-in as long as they are to the spec mentioned above. If you have any trouble with this, go get some professional advice!

3.E.1.a  Roll-bar Tubing and Spreader-Plate Specs Minimum tubing size for cars weighing under 1136kg as raced is 1.50″ x .120″ or 1.75″ x .095″. Cars weighing over 1,360kg as raced must use a minimum tubing size of 1.75″ x .120″. Properly bent, racecar-grade and high-quality tubing is mandatory: no stretched or crushed bends allowed. Mild steel is very strongly recommended over ERW (seamed) tubing. All spreader plates must be mild steel, at least 24 square inches, and at least 0.125” thick.

3.E.1.b What Do You Mean By All That Mumbo-Jumbo? Don’t understand any of the above? See where it says “professionally made”? You shouldn’t be doing this yourself. You can obtain a list of qualified Roll Cage providers from your local car-clubs or Lemons HQ.

3.E.1.c Roll-bar Padding: All roll cage tubing must be padded with high-density roll-bar padding, wherever a driver may contact the tube with head, knees, elbows, etc.

3.E.1.d Roll-cage Attachment to Vehicle: All attachment points on the vehicle must be selected and reinforced so that, in the event of an accident, the cage will not punch through, tear, or grossly distort the attachment point. Contour-following spreader plates, backing panels, gussets and/or other reinforcing elements are generally required to meet this goal. Cages mounted to rusty, thin, poorly supported or otherwise stupid attachment points will flunk tech immediately.

3.E.1.e Rear Limit of Roll-cage: Separate structures to protect fuel tanks, etc. are allowed behind the rear tyres, but they can’t be attached to the roll-cage and can’t allow rear-impact loads to be transferred to the roll-cage.

3.E.1.f Main-Hoop to Backstay Intersection Location: Main backstays must attach no more than six inches (measured from the top of the stay) below the main hoop’s highest point.

3.E.1.g Minimum Door Bar Separation: Whether the door bars are parallel or X-shaped, the top edge of the highest bar and bottom edge of the lowest bar must be at least 7.5 vertical inches apart at both ends.

3.E.1.h Passenger-Side Door Bars: are not required, since you are NOT allowed passengers!

NOTE!! the mounting point plating is very important! Do NOT just stuff a cage in your car and mount it to a rusty, weak as piss location that would rip off in a roll over!! NO, NO… if a car rolls, the roof caves in and the cage takes the force of the entire car, sometimes 5 times its weight dependent on the severity of the roll over!! A cage is only as good as its mountings points. Big plates top and bottom; spread the load over a greater surface area in the unlikely event of a roll over. We want you safe and intact if you do roll over, so we can punish you ourselves for being an idiot for tipping your car over!! Do NOT arrive with a home-built, half-arsed cage!! Get professional advice!!

F. VEHICLE INTERIOR REGULATIONS

3.F.1    Driver’s Seat:

3.F.1.a Driver’s Seat Regs: Driver’s seat-back must reach above middle of helmet or higher. Seat must be a One-piece, purpose-built racing seat with properly located, factory provided shoulder harness holes. Molded plastic seats of ABS or similar material are not allowed.

All seats must be very securely mounted to the floor or cage to avoid separation during a crash. All seat-backs must be restrained against rearward failure.

3.F.1.b Seats With Seat-back Braces: Permanently attached seat-back braces are very strongly recommended, but must always be appropriate to the seat type. A mis-matched seat/seat-back brace combination can damage the seat or seriously injure the driver – confer with the seat’s manufacturer to choose the correct brace. The plate where the seat-back brace meets the seat-back must be properly located to encompass the seat’s main structural elements, and large enough not to push through the seat in a crash or otherwise concentrate loads on the driver (plates sold with many commercial braces are too small to meet this requirement, so you may need to add your own, larger, custom-shaped plate).

3.F.1.c Seats Without Seat-back Braces: If a seat-back brace is not used, a strong, seat-width element such as a shoulder-harness bar must be located within six inches of the seat-back to prevent the seat from failing rearward.

3.F.1.d Solid Mounting: All seats, including seats on adjustable tracks, must show minimal looseness and no back-and-forth free-play.

3.F.1.e Seat and Headrest Strength: All seats must be strong enough to withstand major impacts from any angle. The headrest area must be strong enough not to bend in a heavy rear impact.

3.F.2    Driver’s Harness:

3.F.2.a Five or Six-Point Harnesses Mandatory: NO 4 POINT HARNESSES WILL BE ALLOWED (can include fifth or fifth/sixth “anti-submarine” belt). All harnesses must be CAMS or AASA approved, dated within five years of the race, and properly mounted. Shoulder harnesses must be two totally separate belts with separate mounting points (single-point Y-belts are not allowed). When viewed from above, shoulder harnesses should be closer at their mounting points than at their seat-entry points. All lap belts must be standard 2-inch or 3-inch width; 2-inch HANS-type shoulder belts are allowed only if ALL drivers are using a HANS-type device at all times.

3.F.2.b Harness Mounting Hardware: Grade 8 or better hardware and 2.5-inch or larger load washers are required when mounting to sheet metal.

3.F.2.c Anti-Submarine Belt Mounting: Anti-submarine belt(s) should be mounted vertically. If this requires cutting a hole in the seat squab, don’t route the belt(s) in a way that allows them to fray on a seat spring. If vertical mounting is impractical, the mounting point should be located behind, not ahead of, the belt buckle. All sliders should be snugged up to their mounting plates or harness bars as much as possible. Belts should be neatly and evenly folded when passing through narrower hardware, such as 3-inch belts passing through 2-inch mounting plates.

3.F.2.d Snap-Type Harness Ends: On snap-end-type belt mounts, restrain the snap arm with a cotter pin or safety wire through the hole in the arm.

3.F.3    Onboard Fire Extinguisher: Fully charged Type A:B:E extinguisher, 1kg or larger, must be located in easy reach of driver and secured via a proper, purpose-made, all-metal quick-release bracket. In other words, just go to the damn hardware store and buy a good mount; don’t use the cheap plastic thingy that came with the bottle! No sheet-metal screws or self-tapping screws allowed in mounting.

3.F.4    Window Nets and Driver Egress: Window nets are not mandatory. While a window net can provide hand and arm protection in a rollover, it can also contribute to injury or death in a fire. If you do not use a Window Net, your side Windows must be up. If you do decide to use one, it is critical that all of your drivers are well practiced at removing the net. It is also critical that they are well practiced at releasing belts, cooling tubes, radio wires, and any other attachments quickly. All drivers must be able to exit the car rapidly under potentially life-threatening conditions.

IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT EVERY TEAM MEMBER PRACTICES EMERGENCY CAR ESCAPES BEFORE RACING!

3.F.5    Fix Sharp Edges: Sharp edges in any location, but especially in and around the cockpit, must be rolled, removed, or securely covered.

3.F.6    Fuel, Oil, and Coolant Lines in the Cockpit: Any fuel, oil, or coolant lines that pass through the driving compartment must be encased by heavy-duty conduit, durable steel, aluminum pipe, or strong metal plate. OE metal lines in good condition in their original location are exempt from this rule, but encasement is still recommended.

3.F.7    No Airbags: All airbags must be disarmed and removed, and all airbag housings must be open for inspection at tech. Remember, airbag removal can be really dangerous, so please try not to blow your damn head off, fool. If you don’t know what you’re doing, call in an expert. Let him blow HIS damn fool head off!!

3.F.8    Cockpit De-Scuzzification: Anything loose in the cockpit can be a deadly missile in a crash; so remove or secure any loose items. Loose wiring can cause fires and interfere with the driver; so remove or secure all wiring, hoses, and cables. Carpets, insulation, and plastics will burn quickly and release poisonous fumes; so strip as much of these out of the cockpit as practical. Large items like cool-suit chests must be extremely well secured by purpose-built metal retainers or at least two very well secured, heavy-duty, fully ratcheting tie-down straps.

G. ELECTRICAL & MECHANICAL REGULATIONS

3.G.1    Master Electrical Kill Switch: All cars must have a racing-type master electrical kill switch easily turned both off and on by the belted-in driver. The control for this switch should be red; the OFF position should be clearly indicated; the switch should be easily accessible from outside the car; and the switch should be clearly marked by a three-inch or larger lightning-bolt symbol. All electricity must be interrupted by the kill switch! (if you don’t do that, the engine may still run off the alternator even after the battery circuit is disconnected). Don’t put the switch where it’s likely to be hit by another car in traffic or crushed in an accident.

3.G.2    General Battery: All batteries must be fully secured via proper, purpose-built battery brackets, frames, or factory body mounts. Zip ties, bungee cords, duct tape, macramé plant holders, and other lame workarounds won’t cut it. Batteries located in, or visible from, the passenger compartment must be contained in a sealed battery box. Whether enclosed in a box or not, batteries must not rock, shift, or feel loose – they should feel like a solid part of the car.

3.G.2.a Battery and Other Electrical Terminals: All “hot” terminals on batteries, kill switches, and at other exposed points must be covered with insulating material. Rubber terminal covers and/or well-wrapped electrical tape are acceptable. Silver duct tape is NOT acceptable.

H. FUEL SYSTEM REGULATIONS

3.H.1   General Fuel System Regs: Fuel cells are not mandatory. However, your original fuel tank and systems can be replaced with a “fuel cell” if the original tank is unsafe, particularly if in an older vehicle, pre-year 2000. Remember, rear end collisions can split a rear boot tank, so be smart, if the factory tank you have is not up to scratch, put in a fuel cell.

3.H.2   Definition of “Fuel Cell”: For Lemons, a fuel cell has all of the following:

  1. a) a purpose-built metal container to house the cell
  2. b) a deformable, puncture-resistant inner vessel and/or bladder; and
  3. c) fuel-resistant anti-splash foam

Anything else is just a big bucket ‘o’ gas, despite what it’s El Cheapo manufacturer may call it!

3.H.3   Aftermarket Fuel Cells: If you do decide on the fuel cell option, you MUST fit your cell into your car with a bulkhead between the driver and the cell. We suggest you remove the old rear mounted tank, seal the hole and mount your cell there… and put your bulkhead panel where the rear seat back was… this will help to protect you!!

3.H.4   Fuel Cell Installation. The cell must be securely mounted in a professional manner and in a safe location, where it won’t be damaged in an impact, or drag on the ground if the car leaves the track – in other words, not too far back, and not too low down. All aftermarket fuel components must use threaded fittings and appropriate hose types, and must include all appropriate racecar-quality vents, valves, and other safety features. Fuel-cell installations will be judged on their overall execution and apparent safety.

3.H.4.a Fuel Cell Safety Structure: Fuel tanks/cells must not be unduly exposed to impacts. Tanks/cells that are very close to the edge of the car; and/or poorly protected by the OE structure; and/or very close to the ground; and/or otherwise highly exposed are extremely likely to fail tech. One or more of the following may improve safety and greatly increase your chances of passing:

1) sturdy OE bumpers

2) a strong, well mounted tank/cell-protecting cage that’s totally separate from the main rollcage

3) in non-OE systems, moving the cell someplace safer

3.H.4.b Fuel Cell Vent Lines: All non-OE fuel vent line(s) must end in a safe location that is lower than the bottom of the fuel cell. This helps prevent siphoning when you go upside-down and your cell’s crappy check-valve fails.

3.H.4.c Filler Hoses and Attachments: All non-OE filler systems must be constructed of real, professionally made, purpose-built wire (or nylon reinforced fuel-filler tubing), fasteners and attachments.

3.H.5   OE Tank Removal: If you fit a fuel cell, the OE fuel tank(s) must be removed from the car.

3.H.6   Fuel Bulkhead: The fuel-tank area must be totally separated from the driving compartment. For example, if the fuel tank is in the trunk area, any openings between the trunk and the cockpit must be permanently sealed with bolted, riveted, or welded metal panels. OE fuel tanks that are separate from, and located completely below, the trunk floor or rear cabin floor are acceptable. If the fuel tank can’t be completely separated from the cockpit by metal panels, a metal-encased, FIA-certified fuel cell, with all related compliant fittings, must be used.

3.H.7   Zero Tolerance for Fuel Leaks: Get your fuel system in good working order! If any staff member sees a fuel leak, you will be immediately black-flagged and sent to the tech shed. You will have ONLY ONE CHANCE to completely repair any fuel leak. If the staff member detects a second instance of leakage, regardless of cause, your car must be removed from the race until it is fully repaired. No exceptions. Do NOT pass GO!

3.H.8   No Goofy Fuels: No methanol. No propane or other compressed fuels. Gasoline, mass-market gasoline blends, diesel, and vegetable oil are fine. Hybrids and full electrics may be accepted, but contact us first before building.

I. EXHAUST SYSTEM REGULATIONS

3.I.1     General Exhaust System Regs: A factory-quality designed exhaust system is required. No performance modification systems allowed {except extractors and headers } FUEL HEATING IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND MUST BE AVOIDED AT ALL TIMES!

3.I.2     Exhaust System Construction: Exhaust system must include at least two professional-quality flexible exhaust hangers (i.e., not baling wire or plumber’s tape) aft of the collector. All exhaust joints must be properly slip-jointed, bolted or welded and must not leak.

3.I.3     Tailpipe Location: Exhaust system must dump behind the rear axle, and must not allow undue levels of exhaust to reach the driver’s compartment.

3.I.4     Maintenance: All teams must maintain their exhaust in good condition, without leaks throughout the entire event.

3.I.5     Noise Limit: Car noise limit is 90dB @ 30m, so pretty much stock standard exhaust system with no modifications in this area allowed.

J. REGULATIONS REGARDING THE EXTERIOR OF YOUR CLAPTRAP

3.J.1     Windshields: A sturdy, driver-protecting windshield is required. Minimum requirement is a laminated windscreen, and windshields must be thick enough and suitably braced to resist a heavy object striking the windshield at speed.

3.J.2     Bad-Weather Visibility: It’s your job to figure out which bad-weather visibility aids will be most useful for your car. Wipers and Rain-X are all acceptable. If your visibility is compromised during the race for any reason, you may be black-flagged unless you can find a solution.

3.J.3     Guards, Doors, and bonnet required.

3.J.4     Car Numbers: Numbers must be shown on both sides, and also the bonnet or roof. Car numbers must be at least 12 inches tall and clearly readable. Numbers must be white on black background – if you choose another format, you’re just increasing your chances of failing inspection. Cars that show up with incorrect, improperly formatted, or otherwise hard-to-read numbers will fail tech inspection instantly.

3.J.5     Tow-Strap Locations: Please identify (or add) good, strong, clearly marked tow-strap locations to your car – FRONT and REAR. The faster we can get you hooked up, the faster you can get back on the track. (The word “TOW” with an arrow is acceptable marking.)

3.J.6     No Open Sunroofs: Sunroof openings must be covered by a new panel, securely fixed into place.

3.J.7     Open T-Tops and Convertibles: Arm restraints are required when driving an open T-Top or convertible.

3.J.8     Mirrors: All cars must have at least one interior mirror. Cars with OE-type interior mirrors must also have a driver’s-side exterior mirror. Passenger’s-side exterior mirrors are optional. Cars with panoramic or “Wink” syle interior mirrors don’t need exterior mirrors, but can use them if they like – we highly recommend this.

3.J.9     Glass, Headlights, and Taillights: Headlights, taillights, and side-marker lights must be removed or taped over. Special condition will apply for continuous 24-hour races, as headlights must be in working condition (low beam only) – see 3.J.9.b below.

3.J.9.a Brake Lights: At all times, each car must have working brake lights that are easily seen from the rear. The lights should be located where a mild rear-end impact won’t break or obscure them. A good mounting spot is inside the rear windshield area, on top of the parcel shelf. Stock brake lights protected by clear tape are fine.

3.J.9.b Headlights for Night Racing: In the case of a night race (continuous 24 hour events), headlights will be required. Headlights must be permanently on “low beam” setting (no full beam allowed) and additional spot-lights will be allowed on bars across the front of the car (not roof mounted).

3.J.10   No Flashing Lights or Sirens: No working sirens, flashing lights, or similar emergency vehicle stuff allowed. Anything that makes your car appear like a Safety/emergency vehicle will get you black-flagged.

K. SAFETY REGS UNDER THE BONNET

3.K.1   Engine Firewall: Gaps or holes in the engine firewall must be sealed up with metal plate or OE-type grommets. If you can see through it, we want it closed up. In addition to the required unbroken firewall between engine and cockpit, rear and mid-engined cars must have a sturdy rear window or other complete upper barrier for driver protection against fire, hot oil, angry villagers, etc. Metal, heavy polycarbonate (1/4-inch or thicker), and OE glass are all acceptable.

3.K.2   Coolant: Must be water only – no antifreeze, anti-boil, water-wetter or other additives allowed. That stuff is slippery, so when your car pukes its guts all over the track, we don’t want to be sliding around in it. A functional catch tank is mandatory.

  1. VEHICLE PRICE

4.1       Total Investment in purchasing the Vehicle cannot exceed $999.00

4.1.a    Lame-Ass Rationalizations: Cars that “should be” worth $999 don’t count; cars that “were worth $999″ before you spent what you need to, to set the car up don’t count; cars you’ve owned for 20 years and spent more than $1000 on during that time don’t count; “it would have been worth $999 back then…”

4.1.b    Lame-Ass Rationalizations About Parts: Same deal. “Free” parts, parts given to you by your buddies, or parts left lying around the shop… that crap doesn’t impress us. It’s worth whatever the last real guy paid in the last real purchase. Don’t think you’re clever – we’ve heard ‘em all…

4.2       Safety Equipment: the equipment described in Section 3 DOES NOT count toward $999 total. “Safety” refers to things that can save the driver – not things that can save the car.

4.2.a    Besides the items and processes listed in Section 3, the following are considered safety-related and therefore exempt from the $999 spending limit: Wheels, tyres, wheel bearings, ball-joints, and brake components, exhaust systems downstream of the header/exhaust manifold (NOTE: Turbos and related components are NOT exempt from the $999 limit – nice try). Windshields and wipers, driver comfort & information (steering wheel, shifter, gauges, pedals, cool suits, vents, heaters, radio, etc), better fuel hoses/fittings/filters and related mounts, all fuel-system components upstream of the fuel pump (including tanks/cells, mounts, fillers, vents, etc). NOTE: Fuel pumps, carburetors, injection pumps, computers and individual injectors are exempt from the $999 limit.

4.3       Vehicle Registration: on-road registration of your crapper is not required, but if you’re brave enough to DRIVE it to the track and expect to drive it home again after the event… GOOD LUCK!

4.4       BS Factor: To prevent cheating, all cars will be inspected by our panel of Judges – at that time, all teams will be given an opportunity to describe their car’s purchase and prep. If the panel believes the limit set out in Rule 4.1 has been exceeded, it will assign a BS (BullShit) Factor which may result in Penalties – including lap deductions or physical/mental challenges! Entrants are very, very strongly encouraged to bring pre-race-prep photographs, verifiable receipts, notarized testimonials, plus any and all other supporting evidence to BS Inspection. Or at least make up plausible-sounding stories in advance. Failing that, you could try ‘crying us a river’!

4.4.a    Appeal of BS Decisions: Get real. There’s no appealing these decisions. You’re snookered.

4.5       Sponsorships: Conned some hardworking corporate into giving you parts or cash? Nice work, but it still counts toward the $999 total. We recommend blowing that sponsorship dough on other stuff instead – hotel rooms, fuel, entry fees, pedicures, driver suits, personal male enhancement medication, travel expenses, Freudian therapy for the Organizers – things like that.

4.6       Labour Costs: If you didn’t pay for the labour, it doesn’t count toward the $999 total. If you did pay for it, it does count toward the $999 total. This just ain’t that complicated, guys.

4.7       Scavenger Sales: If you sell pieces off of your car, the money that comes back in can be used to offset the initial purchase price. This only applies to stuff that counts toward the $999 total; the sale of exempt items – like wheels, glass, etc. can NOT be used to offset the initial purchase price. Just be prepared to convince some exceedingly skeptical judges of the validity of all those transactions.

4.8       Residual Value: Dumb enough to bring the same pile back for another race? Let us know your heap of junk passed tech at the last event (it helps if you bring all your papers and evidence – we ain’t gonna remember your sad-sack story from last time). Also, let us know if you’ve made any modifications since the last time – if you’re honest with us, we might go easy on dishing out penalties!

  1. TEAMS & COMMUNICATION

5.1       Definition: An “Entry” consists of one car and usually 5 – 8 drivers/crew members; it exists for one event. A “Team” consists of one or more Entries in one or more events, all sharing one Team Name, one Theme, and one Team Captain; it exists for as long as the Team Captain chooses. An Entry’s minimum Driver count is 5 (no maximum), and there is limit of 4 non-driving crew members, friends in the pit area, cheerleaders, pizza-delivery boys, osteopathic surgeons, etc.

5.1.a    Captains can wise up and quit any time; the quitting Captain can appoint a replacement or dissolve the team.

5.2       Driver Portability: Any registered driver is allowed to drive any registered car at any time.

5.3       Pit Communication: Every team must have a reliable way to signal its driver on track. A pit board (homemade is fine) is acceptable, as is a helmet-wired radio system. No loose or hand-held receivers are allowed in the car.

5.4       24 Lemons will provide each team with an in-car RF radio unit, specifically designed for the Clerk of the Course (or event Organiser) to communicate with the driver of every team at any time. All drivers must plug their in-ear headphone (drivers to supply) into this radio unit at all times during the event, and obey any and all instructions.

  1. DRIVING AND PENALTIES – READ THIS CARFULLY!!

6.1       Penalties: Black-flag penalties are assessed for dangerous behaviors and/or being a knucklehead. These behaviors include, but are not limited to; contact for any reason; wheel(s) leaving the tarmac/track; speeding in the pits; missing/ignoring a safety flag; racing to the yellow or red flag; overly aggressive driving; hitting a wall, cone, tree, safety vehicle, the track restaurant, etc; lack of car control; thinking the racing line has a deed and you own it; unsportsmanlike conduct; annoying the hell out of us; annoying the hell out of anyone else; etc. etc. etc…

6.1.a    Progression of Penalties: Black-flag penalties get increasingly harsh as the number/severity increases – a driver is usually penalized as follows;

  • 1st black flag of day – usually, just a stern chat…
  • 2nd black flag of day – embarrassing penalty at the Judges’ discretion…
  • 3rd black flag of day – same as above but more serious and time consuming…
  • 4th black flag of day – you’d better have DAMNED good bribes and excuses!
  • 5th black flag of day – are you kidding? Your whole team may be ejected for rest of the event!

6.2       Charity Absolution: does not apply – All donations are fully tax-deductible.

6.3       It’s Always Your Fault: 24 Hours of Lemons is an all-fault environment. You are 100% responsible for what happens while you’re in the pits or at the wheel. Think you’re the ‘hittee’ and not the ‘hitter’? We don’t care. Think you’ve been wrongly accused? See the part where it says “we don’t care”. Your job is to stay out of trouble – if trouble finds you, take responsibility like a grownup and figure out how to avoid it the next time.

6.4       Team Lousy-Driving Rule: Teams are held jointly accountable for the penalties earned by their drivers.

6.5       Why Am I Upside-Down? Rule: You’re upside-down because you have no business being out on a racetrack. Any driver who puts a car on its roof is out for the event. Any car that rolls during a race will be removed from the race.

6.6       No Drinking Alcohol Until Track Goes Cold: Participants are absolutely prohibited from drinking alcohol until after the last car leaves the track following the day’s checkered flag. Violators will be ejected from the facility immediately.

6.7       Passing Safety Vehicles: Safety vehicles moving on the track may not be passed unless a wave-by is given by the safety vehicle’s driver or crew.

6.8       Flagging: All flags should be obeyed immediately – they mean something’s up.

6.8.a    Meaning of flags: Flags have the following meanings:

GREEN = GO

On green, drive your brains out. Green is usually shown when the track is clear and unobstructed (normal race conditions).

YELLOW = CAUTION

On yellow, NO PASSING! There’s something dangerous ahead. Stop racing, pay attention to your surroundings and the situation ahead and proceed in single file at no more than 60km/h. Remain in single file until you are safely past the incident(s). You may ONLY return to race speed, overtake and ‘race’ when the Green light is activated.

RED = STOP

On red, come to a safe, controlled stop as soon as practical. Pull to the outside edge of the track, and wait for more instructions (via in-car radio, safety crew or track marshals).

BLACK FLAG (pointed at you individually) = YOU’VE GOT PROBLEMS!

For an individual black flag, come to the Penalty Pit immediately – either you’ve got a mechanical problem, or you/your team has committed a punishment-worthy sin.

6.9     Meaning of Life: ASK YOUR MUM!

 

The team @ 24 Hours of Lemons wish you a safe and happy event!