For the latest Tech Sheet, click here. (Print this, follow the directions, and bring the completed form to the track.)

For the easy-to-follow “How Not to Fail the Safety Inspection” guide, click here.


  • 1.0: WARNING: Racing is Exceedingly Taxing, both Physically and Mentally. When driving a racecar, you’ll be exposed to extreme (both high and low) temperatures; to dense smoke and fumes; to intense shocks and vibration; to very loud noises; and to a variety of other unusual, exhausting, confusing, and stressful conditions. EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU’RE IN EXCELLENT HEALTH, TELL YOUR DOCTOR WHAT YOU’RE PLANNING TO DO; GET A FULL PRE-COMPETITION PHYSICAL EXAM BEFORE YOU START RACING; AND ESTABLISH A REGULAR SCHEDULE FOR RE-TESTS!
  • 1.1: Organizers Decisions: Organizers decisions are final. If you don’t like it, tough. Get your own race.
  • 1.2: Unsafe Vehicles and/or Drivers: At Organizers’ discretion, any unsafe car or driver may be removed from the event at any time.
  • 1.3: Refunds, Entry-Fee Transfers, and Compensation for Loss: There are none. Forget it. It ain’t gonna happen. You get zip. Squat. Nada. Can’t get your act together? Tough nuts. T-boned on Lap One? Listen to the crickets. Abducted by space aliens? Boo-hoo. “BUT” if you stumble and cant get it together the cut off is 60 days prior to the race date where you can get 100% refund of driver fees. Within 60 days of a race date 24 Hours Of LeMons will do their best to replace your team from our wait list…. This is not a guarantee.
  • 1.4: Winners and Prizes: Classes are assigned (aka, pulled from our butts) during tech inspection based on the judges’ best guesses; post-assignment whining can get you a whole lot of grief from the Technical team – as determined by a super-secret equation including vehicle age, general hooptieness, reliability of country of origin, unlikelihood of success, and the Organizers’ whim.
  • 1.5: Your Car May Be REJECTED: This is fair racing. If you think you can play us for fools, think again, seen every trick in the book!!
  • 1.6: Right of Publicity: You and your brilliant, pithy utterances may be photographed, recorded, or otherwise reproduced and re-used whenever and wherever the heck the Organizers like (including but not limited to television, internet, magazines, radio, biblical apocrypha, CinemaScope epics, and cave paintings). You won’t get a penny unless somebody sees it and buys you a coffee. If you’re not comfortable with that, wear a Mexican wrestler mask and/or stay home.
  • 1.7: No Cruisin’ or Stuntin’ or Splodin’: Except for registered street vehicles coming to or leaving the facility, no motorized vehicles may be used on track property from one hour after tech/the checker until sunrise. No firearms or fireworks may be used on track property..
  • 1.8: No Drones or Other Aircraft: Sorry, the insurance people insist–no (intentionally) flying machines allowed onsite.


  • 2.1: Vehicle Eligibility: Entry limited to mass-produced, four-wheeled vehicles legal for Australian highway use at the time of their manufacture. Vehicles must be acquired and prepared for a maximum of $999.00 as described. Vehicles must meet all safety standards.
  • 2.2: Driver Eligibility: All drivers must have a valid Australian or International driver’s license and a valid Australian-Auto Sport Alliance Club competition licenses.
    • 2.2.1: Drivers Under 18: Drivers under 18 years of age are not permitted to enter. All drivers will need to have a valid Australian Drivers License Unrestricted to be accepted into the race.
    • 2.2.2: No Passengers Allowed: Due to the strident insistence of the Fun Police, no passengers are allowed.
  • 2.3: Tyre Eligibility: Approved standard PASSANGER Radial tyres only, no RACING TYRES. Be warned!! We are going to be brutal on this point, NO RACING TYRES, if the RTA DO NOT EXCEPT THEM AS PASSENGER RADIAL TYRES for the road, then they are out…we will not let you out on the track, this is a duration and attrition event and you don’t need high performance tyres for that! they must be road legal passenger tyres only!!!.
  • 2.4: Whiner Eligibility. Whiners are not eligible to compete. If you believe that you might be a whiner, please check with a domestic partner, guardian, or health-care professional before getting the rest of your team kicked the hell out of the race.



    • 3.A.1 General Scrutineering. Vehicles must meet all safety standards laid out in this section and must pass scrutineering prior to each race.  (also called “Lemons Safety Inspection”) is in no way a certification, representation, or guarantee that your crappy old vehicle is fit or safe to drive. Each team is solely responsible for determining its vehicle’s safety, fitness to race, and compliance with LeMons’ rules.

3.A.2 Floor Jack and Jack stands. Each team must bring at least one sturdy floor jack, and at least two sturdy jack stands, to scrutineering. Each team is responsible for safely raising its car off the ground during this process.


    • 3.B.1 Driver’s Helmet. Minimum requirement for drivers helmets are 1698 Australian Standard (i.e. no Skull Caps) but be smart! Get a full-faced helmet!!!it looks cooler!!.
    • 3.B.2 Neck Protection. This is not a requirement but HIGHLY recommended to use.
    • 3.B.3 Fire-Retardant Clothing. Minimum requirement is 2 layer suits, this can be a single layered suit with approved undergarments.
    • 3.B.4 Race Gloves. Minimum requirement is nomex, carbonex or equivalent.
    • 3.B.5 Socks and Other Undergarments. Socks, shirts, and other undergarments made of synthetic material (including nylon, orlon, Spandex, etc.) will melt to the skin in a fire and are strictly forbidden. Fire-retardant (Nomex, Carbon-X, or equivalent) racing socks are mandatory.
    • 3.B.6 Arm Restraints. Arm restraints are required when driving an open T-Top or convertible.


  • 3.C.1 Fueling. All fueling must be handled in approved fuel containers. During fueling, the kill switch must be off; no one can be in the car; and NO other work may be done (no fluid or tire checks, no screwing with the camera, etc.). At least two crew members must participate in fueling, all wearing the same safety gear as a driver, helmets included. Visors must be down. At least one team member must have a fire extinguisher in hand, ready to shoot, aimed at the fueler. Fueling locations vary by track and are covered at the Drivers Meetings. Participants are responsible for knowing all fueling rules and accepted locations.
  • 3.C.2 Drip Pans. All fueling must be done over a sturdy, fuel-compatible drip pan provided by the team.
  • 3.C.3 Fuel Spills. Fuel spills should be quickly diluted with water or Cold Fire. Gasoline eats asphalt, so don’t let it sit! Officials are happy to give you free cleanup supplies—come find one ASAP.
  • 3.C.4 Fluid Spills and Disposal. Please prevent and contain fluid spills. If you do spill, come to LeMons HQ or alert any track official ASAP–we’ll help you get it cleaned up. Most tracks have environmentally safe disposal stations onsite–ask LeMons HQ or any track official for locations.
  • 3.C.5 Fuel storage. Keep your fuel in a secure, shady place outside the garage, except for a maximum of 2 x 20 litre containers that are allowed inside your garage. However regulations change track to track, and always refuel your vehicle in the open air.


  • 3.D.1 Minimum Wheelbase. The minimum acceptable wheelbase is 2.2 metres or as delivered by the factory.
  • 3.D.3 No Gullwings. Or Lambo doors, or anything else that will trap you inside if  you roll.


OK , lets make this more simple for the simple. GO GET A PROFESSIONAL CAGE MAKER TO MAKE YOUR CAGE!! GET A CERTIFICATE OF PRODUCTION….the time you spend trying to save a dollars doing it yourself is pointless.

Our official supplier is Bond Roll Bars:


Best cages in Australia, Weld in or bolts Ph: 02 4587 9672, tell them LEMONS sent you and you get a discount!

The roll cages at a minimum need to be a 6 point CAMS or AASA, Feel free to beef the sucker up the world rally specs…hell I will give you laps for that!

They can be bolt in or weld in as long as they are to the spec mentioned above.

If you have any trouble with this, go get some professional advice !!

Roll bar and Structure. Professionally made full roll cage required. A poorly built, improperly mounted, or badly engineered roll cage will keep you from driving: Don’t show up with crap!.  At minimum, cage must include: Full front and rear hoop, appropriately braced to each other along the roofline (halo type and side/down bar type are also acceptable); two driver-side door bars, or side intrusion. appropriate main-hoop backstays with no bends, located as close to 45 degrees from horizontal as practical; one main-hoop diagonal; appropriate spreader plates and gussets; complete 360-degree welds at all joints, including all car-to-cage joints. Each major loadbearing member must be formed from a single, continuous tube. Shoulder-harness bars are necessary for proper shoulder-harness mounting in nearly all applications (the harness-to-bar attachment point must be between zero and 15 degrees lower than the harness’s seat-entry point). Dash bars are very strongly encouraged. On all sides, all drivers’ helmeted heads must be at least two inches inside the area enclosed by the cage.  For simple illustrations, Minimum tubing size for cars weighing under 1136kg as raced is 1.50″ x .120″ or 1.75″ x .095″. Properly bent, racecar-grade and -quality tubing is mandatory: no stretched or crushed bends allowed..  All spreader plates must be mild steel, at least 24 square inches

All roll cage tubing must be padded with high-density roll bar padding wherever a driver may contact the tube–head, knees, elbows, Roll cage Attachment to Vehicle.  All attachment points on the vehicle must be selected and reinforced as necessary so that, in an accident, the cage will not punch through, tear, or grossly distort the attachment point. Contour-following spreader plates; backing panels; gussets; and/or other reinforcing elements are generally required to meet this goal. Cages mounted to rusty, thin, under-supported, or otherwise stupid attachment points will flunk tech immediately

The pictures below explain……this is your minimum requirement !! take a good look!. Secure and structurally rigid positions on every 6 points!!

cage-1 cage-2

    • 3.F.1 Driver’s Seat
      • 3.F.1.a General Driver’s Seat Regs. Driver’s seatback must reach above middle of helmet or higher. One-piece, purpose-built racing seats with properly located, factory-provided shoulder-harness holes are mandatory. Moulded plastic seats of ABS or similar material are not allowed. All seats must be very securely mounted to the floor or cage to avoid separation during a crash. All seatbacks must be restrained against rearward failure.

3.F.1.b Seats With Seatback Braces. Permanently attached seatback braces are very strongly recommended, but must always be appropriate to the seat type. A mismatched seat/seatback-brace combination can damage the seat or seriously injure the driver — confer with the seat’s manufacturer to choose the correct brace. The plate where the seatback brace meets the seatback must be properly located to encompass the seat’s main structural elements, and large enough not to push through the seat in a crash or otherwise concentrate loads on the driver. (The plates sold with many commercial braces are too small to meet this requirement–often, you’ll need to add your own, larger, custom-shaped plate.)

  • 3.F.1.c Seats Without Seatback Braces. If a seatback brace is not used, a strong, seat-width element such as a shoulder-harness bar must be located within six inches of the seatback to prevent the seat from failing rearward.
  • 3.F.1.d Solid Mounting. All seats, including seats on adjustable tracks, must show minimal looseness and no back-and-forth freeplay.
  • 3.F.1.e Seat and Headrest Strength. All seats must be strong enough to withstand major impacts from any angle. The headrest area must be strong enough not to bend in a heavy rear impact.


    • 3.F.2 Driver’s Harness
      • 3.F.2.a Five- or Six-Point Harnesses Mandatory.  Five- or six-point harnesses are mandatory, including fifth or fifth/sixth “anti-submarine” belt. All harnesses must be CAMS or AASA approved; dated within five years of the race; and properly mounted. Shoulder harnesses must be two totally separate belts with separate mounting points (ie, single-point Y-belts are not allowed). When viewed from above, shoulder harnesses should be closer at their mounting points than at their seat-entry points. All lap belts must be standard 2-inch or 3-inch width; 2-inch HANS-type shoulder belts are allowed only if ALL drivers are using a HANS-type device at all times.
      • 3.F.2.b Harness Mounting Hardware. Grade 8 or better hardware and 2.5-inch or larger load washers are required when mounting to sheet metal.
      • 3.F.2.c Anti-Submarine Belt Mounting. Anti-submarine belt(s) should be mounted vertically. If this requires cutting a hole in the seat squab, don’t route the belt(s) in a way that allows them to fray on a seat spring. If vertical mounting is impractical, the mounting point should be located behind, not ahead of, the belt buckle.
      • 3.F.2.d Harness Routing. Belts should be routed and threaded, all sliders should be snugged up to their mounting plates or harness bars as much as possible.  Belts should be neatly and evenly folded when passing through narrower hardware, such as 3-inch belts passing through 2-inch mounting plates.
      • 3.F.2.e Snap-Type Harness Ends. On snap-end-type belt mounts, restrain the snap arm with a cotter pin or safety wire through the hole in the arm.


  • 3.F.3 Onboard Fire Extinguisher. Fully charged Type A:B:C extinguisher, 1kg or larger, must be located in easy reach of driver and secured via a proper, purpose-made, all-metal quick-release bracket. (In other words, just go to the damn hardware store and buy a good mount; don’t use the cheap plastic thingy that came with the bottle.) No sheetmetal screws or self-tapping screws allowed in mounting.
  • 3.F.4 Window Nets and Driver Egress. Window nets are not mandatory. While a window net can provide hand and arm protection in a rollover, it can also contribute to injury or death in a fire. If you do not use a Window Net your side Windows must be up. If you do decide to use one, it is critical that all of your drivers are well practiced at removing the net. It is also critical that they are well practiced at releasing belts, cooling tubes, radio wires, and any other attachments quickly. All drivers must be able to exit the car rapidly under potentially life-threatening conditions. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT EVERY TEAM MEMBER PRACTICE EMERGENCY CAR ESCAPES BEFORE RACING!
  • 3.F.5 Fix Sharp Edges.  Sharp edges in any location–but especially in and around the cockpit–must be rolled, removed, or securely covered.
  • 3.F.6 Fuel, Oil, and Coolant Lines in the Cockpit. Any fuel, oil, or coolant lines that pass through the driving compartment must be encased by heavy-duty conduit, durable steel or aluminum pipe, or strong metal plate. OE metal lines in good condition in their original location are exempt from this rule, but encasement is still recommended.
  • 3.F.7 No Airbags. All airbags must be disarmed and removed, and all airbag housings must be open for inspection at scrutineering. (Remember, airbag removal can be really dangerous–please try not to blow your damn fool head off. If you don’t know what you’re doing, call in an expert. Let him blow HIS damn fool head off.)
  • 3.F.8 Cockpit De-Scuzzification. Anything loose in the cockpit can be a deadly missile in a crash; remove or secure any loose items. Loose wiring can cause fires and interfere with the driver; remove or secure all wiring, hoses, and cables. Carpets, insulation, and plastics will burn quickly and release poisonous fumes; strip as much of these out of the cockpit as practical. Large items like cool-suit chests must be extremely well secured by purpose-built metal retainers or at least two very well secured, heavy-duty, fully ratcheting tie-down straps.


  • 3.G.1 Master Electrical Kill Switch. All cars must have a racing-type master electrical kill switch easily turned both off and on by the belted-in driver. The control for this switch should be red; the OFF position should be clearly indicated; the switch should be easily accessible from outside the car; and the switch should be clearly marked by a three-inch or larger lightning-bolt symbol. All electricity must be interrupted by the kill switch (if you don’t do that, the engine may still run off the alternator even after the battery circuit is disconnected). Don’t put the switch where it’s likely to be hit by another car in traffic or crushed in an accident.
  • 3.G.2 General Battery. All batteries must be fully secured via proper, purpose-built battery brackets, battery frames, or factory body mounts. Zip ties, bungee cords, duct tape, macrame plant holders, and other lame workarounds won’t cut it. Batteries located in, or visible from, the passenger compartment must be sealed-type or contained in a sealed battery box. Whether enclosed in a box or not, batteries must not rock, shift, or feel loose — they should feel like a solid part of the car.
    • 3.G.2.a Battery and Other Electrical Terminals. All “hot” terminals on batteries, kill switches, and at other exposed points must be covered with insulating material. Rubber terminal covers and/or well wrapped electrical tape are acceptable. Silver duct tape is NOT acceptable.


    • 3.H.1 General Fuel System Regs. All original fuel tanks and systems can be replaced with a “fuel cell” if the original tanks is unsafe if in an older vehicle, pre year 2000. Remember , rear end collisions can split a rear boot tank, so be smart, if the tank you have is not up to scratch, put in a fuel cell Fuel cell location must be behind a bulk head, being the cell maybe in the front or rear of the vehicle.
    • 3.H.2 Definition of “Fuel Cell”. For LeMons, a fuel cell has all of the following: a) a purpose-built metal container; b) deformable, puncture-resistant inner vessel and/or bladder; and c) fuel-resistant anti-splash foam. Anything else is just a big bucket ‘o’ gas, despite what it’s El Cheapo maker may call it–these units are EXTREMELY unlikely to pass scrutineering.
    • 3.H.3 Aftermarket Fuel Cells. Fuel cells are mandatory. Please see the regs on how to fit your cell into your car with a bulk head between the driver and the cell. We suggest you removed the old rear mounted tank seal the hole and mount your cell there… and put your bulk head panel where the rear seat back was… this will protect you!!
    • 3.H.4 Fuel Cell Installation.  If you decide to install a fuel cell, it must be securely mounted in a professional manner and must be installed in a safe location where it won’t be damaged in an impact or drag on the ground if the car leaves the track – in other words, not too far back, and not too low down. All aftermarket fuel components must use threaded fittings and appropriate hose types, and must include all appropriate racecar-quality vents, valves, and other safety features. Fuel-cell installations will be judged on their overall execution and apparent safety.
      • 3.H.4.a Fuel Cell Safety Structure. Fuel tanks/cells must not be unduly exposed to impacts. Tanks/cells that are very close to the edge of the car; and/or poorly protected by the OE structure; and/or very close to the ground; and/or otherwise highly exposed are extremely likely to fail tech. One or more of the following may improve safety and greatly increase your chances of passing: 1) sturdy OE bumpers; 2) a strong, well mounted, tank/cell-protecting cage that is totally separate from the main rollcage; 3) in non-OE systems, moving the cell someplace safer.
      • 3.H.4.b Fuel Cell Vent Lines. All non-OE fuel vent line(s) must end in a safe location that is lower than the bottom of the fuel cell. (This helps prevent siphoning when you go upside-down and your cell’s crappy check valve fails).
      • 3.H.4.c Filler Hoses and Attachments. All non-OE filler systems must be constructed of real, professionally made, purpose-built wire- or nylon-reinforced fuel-filler tubing and real, professionally made, purpose-built fasteners and attachments.


  • 3.H.5 OE Tank Removal. If you fit a fuel cell, the OE fuel tank(s) must be removed from the car.
  • 3.H.6 Fuel Bulkhead. The fuel-tank area must be totally separated from the driving compartment. For example, if the fuel tank is in the trunk area, any openings between the trunk and the cockpit must be permanently sealed with bolted, riveted, or welded metal panels. OE fuel tanks that are separate from, and located completely below, the trunk floor or rear cabin floor are acceptable. If the fuel tank can’t be completely separated from the cockpit by metal panels, a metal-encased, FIA-certified fuel cell with all related compliant fittings must be used.
  • 3.H.7 Zero Tolerance for Fuel Leaks. Get your fuel system in good working order! If any staff member sees a suspect leak you will be immediately black-flagged and sent to the tech shed. You will have ONLY ONE CHANCE to completely repair any fuel leak. If the staff member detects a second instance of leakage, regardless of cause, your car must be permanently removed from the race. No exceptions.
  • 3.H.8 No Goofy Fuels. No methanol. No propane or other compressed fuels. Gasoline, mass-market gasoline blends, diesel, and vegetable oil are fine. Hybrids and full electrics may be accepted, but contact us first before building.


  • 3.I.1 General Exhaust System Regs. A factory -quality designed exhaust system is required. No performance modification systems allowed. {except extractors and headers }. FUEL HEATING IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND MUST BE AVOIDED AT ALL TIMES!
  • 3.I.2 Exhaust System Construction. Exhaust system must include at least two professional-quality flexible exhaust hangers (i.e., not baling wire or plumber’s tape) aft of the collector. All exhaust joints must be properly slip-jointed, properly bolted or welded, and must not leak.
  • 3.I.3 Tailpipe Location. Exhaust system may not dump ahead of the driver, and must not allow undue levels of exhaust to reach the driver’s compartment.
  • 3.I.4 Maintain in Due Order. All teams must maintain their exhaust in good condition, without leaks, throughout the event.
  • 3.I.5 Noise Limit. Our noise limit is 90dB @30m, you must run stock standard exhaust systems no modifications in this area allowed.


  • 3.J.1 Windshields. A sturdy, driver-protecting windshield is required; Minimum requirement is a laminated windscreen, All windshields must be thick enough and suitably braced to resist a heavy object striking the windshield at speed.
    • 3.J.1.a Bad-Weather Visibility. It’s your job to figure out which bad-weather visibility aids will be most useful for your car. Wipers and Rain-X are all acceptable. If your visibility appears compromised during the race for any reason, you may be black-flagged until conditions improve.
  • 3.J.2 Guards, Doors, and bonnet Required.
  • 3.J.3 Car Numbers. Numbers must be shown on both sides, and also the bonnet or roof. Car numbers must be at least 12 inches tall and clearly readable. Numbers must be white on black background–if you choose another format, you’re just increasing your chances of failing tech. Cars that show up with incorrect, improperly formatted, or otherwise hard-to-read numbers will fail inspection instantly.
  • 3.J.4 Tow-Strap Locations. Please identify (or add) good, strong, clearly marked tow-strap locations to your car front and rear. The faster we can get you hooked up, the faster you can get back on the track. (The word “TOW” with an arrow is acceptable marking.)
  • 3.J.5 No Open Sunroofs. All sunroof openings must be covered by a new panel securely fixed into place.
  • 3.J.6 Open T-Tops and Convertibles. Arm restraints are required when driving an open T-Top or convertible.
  • 3.J.7 Mirrors. All cars must have at least one interior mirror. Cars with OE-type interior mirrors must also have a driver’s-side exterior mirror. Passenger’s-side exterior mirrors are optional. Cars with panoramic or “Wink”-type interior mirrors don’t need exterior mirrors, but can use them if they like, we highly recommend this.
  • 3.J.8 Glass, Headlights, and Taillights. Headlights, taillights, and side marker lights must be removed or taped over.
    • 3.J.8.a Brake Lights. At all times, each car must have at least one working brake light that is easily seen from the rear. The light should be located where a mild rear-end impact won’t break or obscure it. Good spots include inside the rear windshield area; on top of the parcel shelf; and on the deck at the base of the rear-windshield area. Stock brake lights protected by clear tape are fine.
    • 3.J.8.b Headlights for Night Racing. In the rare case of a night race, headlights may be required. See the Event Page of the race that you’ve entered for details.
    • 3.J.8.c No straight Glass windows are permitted. Window must be laminated glass. If you run without a window a mesh screen must be securely fitted to roll cage were the front window was. If you remove the front windscreen you must remove the back window. With the exception of the front windscreen area, no other window apertures are to be covered with any material. A mesh screen must be securely fitted to roll cage in front of the driver. Maximum mesh size 50mm x 50mm, minimum gauge 3mm. Mesh screen to cover entire area from “A” pillar bar to centre bar and from dash to roof bar. The windscreen mesh must be welded, or clamped with metal clamps to the roll cage “A” pillar and centre windscreen bar. Minimum of four clamps to be used.
  • 3.J.9 No Flashing Lights or Sirens. No working sirens, flashing lights, or similar emergency vehicle stuff allowed. Anything that could make your car be confused for an actual emergency vehicle will get you black-flagged.


  • 3.K.1 Engine Firewall. Gaps or holes in the engine firewall must be sealed up with metal plate or OE-type grommets. If you can see through it, we want it closed up.  In addition to the required unbroken firewall between engine and cockpit, rear- and mid-engined cars must have a sturdy rear window or other complete upper barrier for driver protection against fire, hot oil, angry villagers, etc. Metal, heavy polycarbonate (1/4-inch or thicker), and OE glass are all acceptable.
  • 3.K.2 Coolant. Coolant must be water only–no antifreeze, antiboil, water-wetter, or other additives allowed. (That stuff is slippery–when your car pukes its guts all over the track, we don’t want to be sliding around in it.) A functional catch tank is mandatory.


  • 4.1: Total Investment in Vehicle Can Not Exceed $999.00.
    • 4.1.1: Lame-Ass Rationalizations: Cars that “should be” worth $999 don’t count; cars that “were worth $999″ before you spent another $2000 to fix them don’t count; cars you’ve owned for 20 years and spent more than $1000 on during that time don’t count; “it would have been worth $999”.
    • 4.1.2: Lame-Ass Rationalizations About Parts: Same deal. “Free” parts, parts given to you by your buddies, parts left lying around the shop…that crap doesn’t impress us. It’s worth whatever the last real guy paid in the last real purchase. Don’t think you’re clever.
  • 4.2: Safety Equipment DOES NOT Count Toward $999 Total: Safety equipment described in Section 3 DOES NOT count toward the $999 total. “Safety” refers to things that can save the driver–not things that can save the car.
    • 4.2.1: Beside the items and processes listed in Section 3, the following are considered safety-related and therefore exempt:
      • Wheels, tyres, wheel bearings, balljoints, and brake components
      • Exhaust systems downstream of the header/exhaust manifold (NOTE: Turbos and related components are NOT exempt from the $999 limit. Nice try.)
      • Windshields and wipers.
      • Driver comfort & information (steering wheel, shifter, gauges, pedals, cool suits, vents, heaters, radio)
      • All fuel hoses, fuel fittings, fuel filters, and related mounts
      • All fuel-system components upstream of the fuel pump, including tanks/cells, mounts, fillers, vents, etc. (NOTE: Fuel pumps, carburetors, injection pumps, computers, and individual injectors are NOT exempt from the $999 limit.)
  • 4.3: Registration: Not required.
  • 4.4: BS Factor: To prevent cheating, all cars will be inspected by a panel appointed by the Organizers. At that time, all teams will be given an opportunity to describe the car’s purchase and prep. If the panel believes the limit set out in Rule 4.1 has been exceeded, it will assign a Bullshit Factor (BSF) equal to one BSF per $100 above the limit. The entry will be docked one lap for each BSF assigned. (One hundred dollars = one BSF = one lap.) Entrants are very, very, exceedingly strongly encouraged to bring pre-race-prep photographs, verifiable receipts, notarized testimonials, plus any and all other supporting evidence to BS Inspection. Or at least make up plausible-sounding stories in advance.
    • 4.4.1: Appeal of BSF Panel Decisions. Get real. There’s no appealing this decision. You’re snookered.
  • 4.5: Sponsorships: Conned some hardworking corp into giving you parts or cash? Nice work, but it still counts toward the $1000 total. We recommend blowing that sponsorship dough on other stuff instead–hotel rooms, fuel, entry fees, pedicures, driver suits, personal male enhancement medication, travel expenses, Freudian therapy for the Organizers…things like that.
  • 4.6: Labor Costs: If you didn’t pay for the labor, it doesn’t count toward the $999 total. If you did pay for it, it does count toward the $999 total. This just ain’t that complicated, guys.
  • 4.7: Scavenger Sales: If you sell pieces off of your car, the money that comes back in can be used to offset the initial purchase price. (This only applies to stuff that counts toward the $999 total; the sale of exempt items–like wheels, glass, etc.–can NOT be used to offset the initial purchase price.) Just be prepared to convince some exceedingly skeptical judges of the validity of all those transactions.
  • 4.8: Residual Value: Dumb enough to bring the same pile back for another race? Either do the whole BS process again (bring all your papers and evidence–we ain’t gonna remember your sad-sack story from last time), us to beg a residual value. Include clear post-race pix of the car and list any major mechanical stuff that needs fixing.


  • 5.1: Definition of an Entry and a Team: An “Entry” consists of one car and 5-6 drivers; it exists for one event. A “Team” consists of one or more Entries in one or more events, all sharing one Team Name, one Team Concept, and one Team Captain; it exists for as long as the Team Captain chooses. An Entry’s minimum driver count is 5 and no maximum, there is limit of 4 non-driving crew members, friends in the pit area, cheerleaders, pizza-delivery boys, osteopathic surgeons, etc.
    • 5.1.3: Captains can wise up and quit any time; the quitting Captain can appoint a replacement or dissolve the team.
  • 5.2: Driver Portability: Any registered driver is allowed to drive any registered car at any time.
  • 5.3: Pit Communication: Every team must have a reliable way to signal its driver on track. A pit board (homemade is fine) is acceptable, as is a helmet-wired radio system. No loose or hand-held receivers are allowed in the car.


  • 6.0: Penalties: Black-flag penalties are assessed for dangerous behaviors and/or being a douche. These behaviors include, but are not limited to, contact for any reason; wheel(s) leaving the pavement; speeding in the pits; missing/ignoring a safety flag; racing to the yellow or red flag; overly aggressive driving; hitting a wall, cone, tree, safety vehicle, the track restaurant, etc; lack of car control; thinking the line has a deed and you own it; unsportsmanlike conduct; annoying the hell out of us; annoying the hell out of everyone else; etc.
    • 6.0.1: Progression of Penalties: Black-flag penalties get increasingly harsh as the number/severity increases.
      • 1st black flag of day–usually, just a stern chat.
      • 2nd black flag of day–embarrassing, time-consuming penalty at judges’ discretion.
      • 3rd black flag of day–same as above plus a mandatory 1-hour penalty.
      • 4th black flag of day–same as above plus a mandatory 3-hour penalty.
      • 5th black flag of day–whole team ejected for rest of the race.
    • 6.0.2: Charity Absolution: Does not apply – All donations are tax-deductible.
  • 6.1: It’s Always Your Fault: LeMons is an all-fault environment. You are 100% responsible for what happens while you’re at the wheel. Think you’re the hittee, not the hitter? We don’t care. Think you’ve been wrongly accused? See the part where it says “we don’t care.” Your job is to stay out of trouble. If trouble finds you, take responsibility like a grownup and figure out how to avoid it the next time.
  • 6.2: Team Lousy-Driving Rule: Teams are held jointly accountable for the penalties earned by their drivers.
  • 6.3: Why Am I Upside-Down? Rule: You’re upside-down because you have no business being out on a racetrack. Any driver who puts a car on its roof is out for the event. Any car that rolls during a race will be removed from the race.
  • 6.4: No Drinking Until Track Goes Cold: Participants are absolutely prohibited from drinking alcohol until after the last car leaves the track following the day’s checkered flag. Violators will be ejected from the facility immediately.
  • 6.5: Passing Safety Vehicles: Moving safety vehicles may not be passed on the track unless a wave-by is given by the safety vehicle’s driver or crew.
  • 6.6: Flagging: All flags should be obeyed immediately–they mean something’s up.
  • 6.7: Meaning of flags: These flags have the following meanings:
    • Green: Go
      • On green, race your brains out. Green is usually shown only at start/finish.
    • Yellow: Caution
      • On yellow, NO PASSING! There’s something dangerous ahead. Stop racing, pay attention to your surroundings and the situation ahead, and proceed in single file at a reasonable pace. BE SURE YOU’RE IN SINGLE FILE AND WELL BELOW RACING SPEED BY THE TIME YOU REACH THE STATION! Remain in single file at a reasonable pace until you are safely past the incident(s).
    • Red: Stop
      • On red, come to a safe, controlled stop as soon as practical. Pull to the outside edge of the pavement in view of a flag station and wait for more instructions.
    • Black (pointed at you individually): You’ve Got Problems
      • For an individual black, come to the Penalty Box immediately–either you’ve got a mechanical problem, or you/your team has committed a punishment-worthy sin.
    • Black (waving at all stations): We’ve All Got Problems
      • For “black all,” exit at your next opportunity, go back to your paddock space, and wait for more instructions.